Today was marble day. The house of Octavian (emperor Augustus), the Senate, the Vestal virgin houses, the Colosseum (frankly overhyped), and countless arches and temples. The Romans had lots of gods, and Octavian had an impressive hippodrome adjoining his house (but no Wi-Fi).

Lunched at a trattoria, apprehensively watching a ray of sun the width of the alley slowly creeping towards me. Right before it reached me, I was getting ready to move on but the waiter brought me a glass of cold white wine on the house. I can make an exception today and let myself roast a little, I thought. My new friend kept refilling my glass, and I kept reading and writing well beyond the point when the sun had come and gone, several hours.

In my sunblasted euphoria, my mood seemed to have ranged from the metaphysical to the stupid, judging from my notes.

“Old man smoking pipe on Vespa hilarious!

Older religions think everything always starts all over again. Christians see time going in a direction.

I hate that my left brain never shuts up. I love that the manhole covers in Rome still say SPQR.

Everywhere you go in the world outside n america the coffee’s great and there’s soccer on TV

After 3 days I still don’t know if I go in the Signore or the Signori. Neither seem to have urinals.

Tomorrow, the Vatican. Be nice if God talked to me.”

Great price to quality ratio, those hours. I even got a tan in the bargain.